This is the new, updated, version of the Eurorack Stripboard prototyping PCB.
This update keeps the same features as the previous version:
- Strips, of course, with tons of holes! If you know how to breadboard, you won’t be lost! Copy/paste your breadboarded circuit to a soldered version
- Simplified pre-wired power supply interface (10 or 16 pins)
- Up to 5 potentiometers or 5 Cliff jacks
What’s new?
There are 2 main updates. The first is purely aesthetic, but it adds a lot to the readability of the circuit: Instead of emphasizing on the continuity of each trace of copper, now the silkscreen indicates the isolation between tracks.
In previous version, with the silkscreen showing the trace, each pad’s mask (where you apply the solder tin) breaks the the silkscreen line. The result is an impression of discontinuity where it was supposed to show continuity.
I think this change will improve the usability.
The second change is within the power supply interface. As stated in the previous version, I pointed the bad design of the input filter. In previous versions, the filter cap was “before*” the diode or resistive element (*: on PSU side).
Now, the filter capacitor is after the diode/resistive element. This creates an effective low pass filter:
Note that you can replace the diodes by some resistors or chokes. Or simple jumper wires. The diodes add protection against reverse polarities. Resistors and chokes are better for filtering high freq interferences.
There are more than 60 horizontal strips of 4 and 5 pins/holes. One long 30 pin strip per power supply rail and two 30 pin strips for ground.
BOM
The BOM really depends on your application. Below is the list of the components for the power supply interface, and the recommend potentiometers and jack connectors.
| Component | Reference or name | Where to buy |
| Jack connectors | CL1384 or FCR1281 (Datasheet) | Farnell, Conrad, Rapidonline, TME, |
| Potentiometers | Right angle, 9 or 16mm diameter (2.5 or 5mm pin pitch) | Synthcube, Thonk |
| Power input | 10 or 16 pin boxed or unboxed header (2.54mm pin pitch) | Any electronic shop |
| Capacitors | Aluminium, polarized, 1 to 10µF, 25V 2.5mm pin pitch | Any electronic shop Prefer renowned brands (Nichicon, Panasonic…) |
| Diodes | 1N400x or 1N5819 | Any electronic shop |
How to connect jacks and pots
Jack connectors are Cliff CL1334. They use the strips A, B, D and E.
A and B are switched open when the male jack connector is inserted. D and E are the contacts to the male connector.
- E is Tip (the signal)
- and D is Ring (usually the 0V reference, often designated as “ground”).
Note that Cliff jacks are insulated from the panel.
Potentiometers are 9mm (2.5mm pin pitch) or 16mm (5mm pin pitch). Alpha 9mm are a good choice. They align pretty nicely with Cliff jacks on front panel. They connect to strips B, C and D.
- B is Counter Clock Wise pole.
- D is Clock Wise pole.
- And C is Wiper pole.
hey, I’ve still got a couple of the older boards, would it be feasible to just install the diodes in the labeled caps position and the caps in the diodes?
Hi, it’s not a good idea to swap capacitors and diodes. Here is a picture showing both versions. On the left, unmodified, and on the right, with inversion of caps and diodes.
(bigger version)
Swapping C and D would block DC.
Version 1.2 power input filter is less effective but still ok.